Helpful Advice for Dealing with Maskne

Here’s the problem: Daily wearing of protective masks is undoubtedly causing its own unique combination of skin challenges. Over the past several months, I have seen many cases of “maskne”, which can present as dryness, irritation, inflammation and breakouts. The big question is, “how do I treat the area, when the answer to one problem might aggravate the other?”. Try not to stress over it… stress in itself can lead to break out ☹. My approach, always, is to first treat and calm the compromised, irritated skin. Angry, inflamed skin is in no shape to receive strong acne-fighting ingredients (e.g., benzoyl peroxide).

First, a tight-fitting face covering, pressure, and friction can lead to chafing and skin “rawness”.

Second, body heat and moist breath that is trapped underneath the mask creates a humid, bacteria-loving environment that can be compared to a hothouse… perfect for growing.

Aside from nice full brows and lashes, there is nothing I want growing on my face, especially around my mouth! Add impurities, oil, sweat, and you have a perfect storm for bacteria and yeast to grow, irritation to develop, and skin’s pH to get thrown out of balance. Now what?

Let’s cover some commonsense rules that are worth repeating:

Change or wash masks daily. Repeat use can just rub old oil and dirt into your skin. Even after a day off, once you start breathing into yesterday’s mask, bacteria and gunk go back to work. Ew.
Do not wear makeup on the masked area. No one is seeing it, anyway!
Give your skin a 15-minute break, every 4 hours.
Avoid rinsing your face with hot water. Cool to tepid water is most soothing and skin friendly.

If skin is red, aggravated and uncomfortable, then protection and prevention should be your skincare priority, especially if your job requires mask-wearing all day, every day. The goal is to return the distressed barrier layer to a healthier state, so it can continue to act as a barrier to disease (thanks, epidermis!). Put aside your concerns about fine lines, hyperpigmentation or slackening skin, just for now.

It is extremely important to keep the face clean by using a gentle, fragrance free facial wash. Use fingertips and palms of your hands to cleanse and avoid brushes or washcloths. Double cleansing is fine and might feel especially good if you’ve just worked out or put in a 12-hour shift. Cleansers containing alcohol, menthol, granules or a significant percentage of acids should not be used on the effected area. Remember to keep water temperature tepid. Following with a spritz of toner will soothe and hydrate beautifully, so long as it’s fragrance and alcohol free. Look for calming ingredients like aloe vera and chamomile.

Hydration is key to restoring skin health. In the morning, apply a lightweight moisturizer after you cleanse. A gel, serum, or lotion provides hydration without any (or much) oil. If you wear a medical grade or stiff mask, there’s a greater chance for irritation where mask meets face. In this case, I suggest using an occlusive product to form a protective layer only where there is actual contact with the mask. Dermatologists might suggest Aquaphor. I’m a fan of Dermalogica’s Barrier Repair- it doesn’t have a lot of “slip”.

At the end of the day, immediately cleanse your face to remove impurities, sweat, salt from your skin. Safely exfoliate 2-3 times a week using a gentle AHA or BHA (glycolic or salicylic can be found in skin washes), except where skin is broken. If your evening will be a maskless one, it’s okay to use something a little more emollient where you’re feeling dry. Spot treat acne with a sulfur or salicylic acid product.

Realize that this is not the time to introduce new ingredients which could potentially cause an adverse reaction. For instance, retinoids are effective against acne and are known to strengthen skin, but even in the healthiest skin they should be added with awareness to your skin’s response. Check with your skincare professional if you’re just not sure.

Ingredients to incorporate into your maskne routine: hyaluronic acid (hydrates), ceramides (fortifies protective barrier), and niacinimide (acts as an anti-inflammatory). Oatmeal is calming, and often found in sensitive skin products. Consult your dermatologist if your skin seems unmanageable, even after following these recommendations. Have patience, keep wearing your mask, and above all, be kind to yourself.